When you think of storm doors, the old slamming wood screen door that pops open with the wind may come to mind. However, today’s storm doors have innovative features. If your door doesn’t close itself, follow these two simple tips to get your door to close itself every time.
1. Adjust Your Closer
Your storm door likely has one or two closers. Adjusting the speed on these can help prevent your door from slamming and ensuring a tight close every time.
If you have two closers, adjust one at a time. Disconnect one by removing the pin connecting it to the door bracket and swinging it away. Next, adjust the connected closer until it closes as your preferred speed. Turn the adjustment screw or know (varies by model) 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, until you’ve achieved your desired closing speed. Turn it counter-clockwise to increase the speed and clockwise for a slower speed. Then disconnect that closer, and reconnect your other one and repeat. Both closers should now be set at the same speed to ensure your door closes every time.
2. Mind The Weather
Keep these two simple tips in mind when your door won’t seem to close behind you.
Years ago, someone got the idea to attach a spring between a door and the door jamb and invented the storm door closer. But it didn’t always work and too often the door would simply slam closed, possibly resulting in broken glass.
Enter the pneumatic door closer. The pneumatic door closer still operates offspring but a cushion of air causes the door to close smoothly. Install a storm door closer to close your storm and screen door gently. Be sure to read the manufacturers instructions since installation for different models may vary.
Install the Jamb Bracket
The jamb bracket attaches the storm door closer to the door jamb. Close the storm door and measure in 1/4 inch from the door on the jamb the storm door hinges attach to.
Mark the jamb near the top and 1/4 inch from the storm door. Hold the jamb bracket in position and mark the screw hole centers with a pencil.
Storm Door Closer Installation (How to Install a Storm Door Closer)
Drill 1/8-inch pilot holes for the screws. Place the bracket against the door jamb again and screw it to the hinge jamb using the supplied screws and a Philips screwdriver.
Connect the Door Closer Rod
Place the hold-open washer onto the rod that extends from the door closer cylinder. The best part of the washer should point towards the cylinder.
Place the flat part of the rod into the jamb bracket and hold it so the hole in the rod aligns with the holes in the jamb bracket.
Insert the pin into the hole in the top of the jamb bracket, through the hole in the rod and out the bottom hole of the jamb bracket.
Pull the cylinder away from the jamb bracket until the two small bumps on the rod are outside the tube. Slide the closer washer over the bumps and up against the cylinder.
This will hold the rod and cylinder in the correct position for attaching the door bracket on the storm door and put the right amount of tension on the internal spring.
Also Read: Heck reviews on best doorknobs https://toolsandgears.com/best-door-knobs-reviews/
Install the Door Bracket
Place the door bracket over the hole on the end of the cylinder. The hole closest to the end of the bracket is the “winter” hole. Insert the length of the door closer pins through the door bracket winter hole and closer cylinder hole.
Close the storm door and latch it. Hold the door bracket against the storm door with the closer cylinder and rod level. Mark the screw holes on the storm door.
Open the storm door. Carefully drill two 1/8-inch pilot holes in the storm door for the door bracket. The metal on the door is usually quite soft and drills easily.
Run the drill at a slow speed and take your time. It is very easy to drill completely through the door and you do not want to that.
Close the door again and attach the door bracket to the storm door with the supplied screws.
Adjust the speed of the closing door by turning the adjustment screw at the end of the door closer. Turning the screw clockwise will slow the door and counterclockwise will speed it up.
The door should swing closed, come nearly to stop a few inches from being closed, then finish closing gently.
A screen door requires less force to close than a storm door. Hold the door open a bit, lift the pinout of the door bracket “winter” hole, move the cylinder to the “summer” hole (furthest from the cylinder) and reinsert the pin.
When fall arrives, just move the pin back to the “winter” hole to close the door with the glass panels in place.
A storm door closer is surely a handy solution for windy areas.
However, nothing is perfect and long exposure to heavy winds would surely wear it out.
You could fall victim to a broken storm door closer if you don’t check up on it or don’t do maintenance over time.
But don’t worry, it’s not the end of the world if your storm door closer doesn’t work properly. It’d annoy you slightly, for sure, but I’m here to help you with that so you can immediately take care of it.
So without further ado, let’s show you how to fix storm door closer, DIY work…
Table of Contents
Some Storm Door Closer Problems and How to Fix Them
Fussing over Hydraulic vs Pneumatic screen door closers doesn’t matter. What matters is whether or not they are working properly. A storm door closer might be a small tool, but it’s got a hell of a utility. And, it comes with its fair share of problems too.
But why let such minor inconveniences stop you from reaping all the benefits it presents, which is why I’ll be talking about some of the most common storm door closer problems and their solutions.
It’s best if we talk about further in detail below:
Problem #1: Bent storm closer
Usually, a storm door closer should be able to handle regular nudges of the wind. But heavy winds from massive storms are a whole different story.
Top-notch closers would be able to hold their own for a reasonable amount of time, but eventually, it will start to bend, especially with the ferocious storms we’ve been seeing in the US lately.
- Vice grip
You’ll extend the bent rod fully, clamp it at one end on the bench and the other end using vice grip. This ensures that the rod won’t retract. Next, you take a hammer and keep bashing it to straighten it. Make sure the rod is clamped tightly.
Rotate and straighten the rod of the closer from every angle until it’s entirely straight. Finally, use the screwdriver if there is any need to adjust the tension.
Problem #2: Storm door closer jammed at the outside of the frame
Much like most other storm door problems, the wind is responsible for jamming a closer. When a storm door closer gets clogged, the rod can’t retract or extend- ultimately getting stuck and not letting the door open or close.
To fix this, you’ll have to remove the closer and take out all the pins. Now, pull the rod slightly, take a screwdriver and rotate the rod 180 degrees. Then try to put it back in slowly. If everything goes well, your storm door closer will get unjammed smoothly.
Problem #3: Storm door closer ripped out of door frame
When facing outrageous stormy weather, a heavy gust of wind is capable of blowing your screen door open and ripping the door closer. This is very nasty damage to your door frame because the wood is torn, and the metal is somewhat ripped.
This occurs quite commonly if you’ve used short screws on the door.
First of all, take out the closer, separate the wood and metal. Out of these, wood is the easiest to fix, so let’s start with that. Patch the broken wood, then add some strong adhesive into it.
For the metal, put a metal plate and glue it. Now, it’s time for you to redo the bracket. It’s better to use long screws- 3″ or bigger to give you better protection. If needed, redrill the holes for the screws to go in.
The screws go in the wood behind the door frame and through-bolt connection of the closer. Taking help of machine screws, nuts and washers will make this step faster.
Finally, pound it back in with a hammer. I’m 99% positive that it won’t cause you trouble anymore unless something disastrous happens.
Problem #4: Storm door refuses to open
- You mistakenly pressed the button
- You might have snapped the spring inside that closes the door
- Your screen door closer got jammed
No matter what the scenario is, you shouldn’t panic because your storm door closer isn’t broken, and with simple steps, you can get it back to normal. Here’s what you gotta do according to each of the possibilities.
Scenario A happens with Touch ‘n Hold screen door closers where there is a button at the end. This happens mostly with people who just recently installed a door closer. The button keeps the door open, not closes it- please remember that.
As for getting it back to normal, simply nudge it further away and pull it back in.
In case you didn’t have a button and used a regular washer and rod type closer, then most likely, the spring went out. There is an easy way you could identify it, and there will be a distinguishable snapping noise that indicates the spring got broken.
Sadly, you have to replace the new closer in this case.
As for scenario C, I already covered that in Problem #2.
Problem #5: Storm door got locked open
This situation is quite similar to the previous one, just worse. The solutions that worked for Problem #4 won’t cut it here, though. Surprisingly, this is a pretty common problem, especially in pneumatic doors.
The cause of this is the storm door hold open washer not working as it should. This tiny thing becomes loose over time and doesn’t play its role properly.
Let me explain it a bit more deeply, after getting loose, the washer puts a dent on the rod when force is applied. It then fails to release over the dented area, thus being unable to move.
Fixing it is no major thing. Pop the pins out the door closer bracket then you’ll notice the other end of the rod wasn’t retracing in the hole. Finding this out is important because this hole is what holds the pin with the bracket.
Now, use a screwdriver with a thin neck to spin the rod 180 degrees in either left or right direction; it’s your choice. By rotating the rod, keep pulling it away from the closer. You’ll have to keep doing it until you see the rod retracing back to the closer.
And then, it’ll be as good as new!
Knowing how to fix storm door closer and having a rock-solid frame to accompany it will surely benefit you on a rainy day.
So just find the problem and fix them as I showed you.
But if your storm door closer is giving you trouble after all the fixes and adjustment, you have to go for replacing the door closer with a new one and you can be done with it within a matter of minutes.
What good is a sagging storm door? It isn’t. You certainly shouldn’t have to live with the problem, either.
Fix your sagging storm door in a quick do-it-yourself project that doesn’t require the expert skills of an experienced craftsman, but just an hour of your time and the right tools.
Fixing the Metal Frame
The most common culprit behind a sagging storm door is the issue of the metal frame that surrounds the door coming loose, not the wood trim. To fix this problem with your sagging storm door, you’ll need stainless steel screws, a shim, and your drill.
You can suspect that the metal frame or surrounding molding is to blame if your storm door is having trouble opening or closing, scraping against it as you pull. If you push the door up and down and the molding moves, start by securing it with a few extra nails at the top of the wood trim.
Add more nails along the trim if it’s needed, then if you want to aim for aesthetics, cover the nail heads with caulking, finishing the job with a coat of paint.
Stick a shim between the door and its metal frame. Next, you’ll want to tighten the screws that are already in the frame, and then drill additional screw holes for your new stainless steel screws you’ve purchased. This is where you’ll want to drill carefully, as you don’t want to drill into the wood molding with this 3/16-inch bit. Making a 3/32-inch pilot hole into the wood, add at least two or three screws at the top of the frame to resolve your sagging door issue.
Installing a Turnbuckle to Fix a Sagging Screen
A turnbuckle is a brace that reinforces the door. Essentially, it’s a metal rod with ends that thread into a nut and by installing one you can easily fix the sag of a screen door. However, even though your sagging problems will be long gone, the turnbuckle will change the overall look of your door, which is something to keep in mind.
You can purchase a turnbuckle in two different sizes: 42” or 50”, designed for doors that are less than 36” wide or doors that are wider than 36”, respectively. Other supplies you’ll need are your drill and the appropriate bits, and a tape measure.
Start by Threading Nuts and Positioning the Turnbuckle
You’ll start by threading the coupling nuts onto either end of your turnbuckle. Next, position the turnbuckle about 2” above the door’s bottom corner, making sure it’s on the door’s handle side, no the hinge’s side. You’ll then slant it upward and holding it against the hinge side of the door.
The turnbuckle should be flush against the screen door. Open and close the door a few times just be sure that the turnbuckle won’t interfere with its function. Mark where you want the screw holes to be drilled on the screen door.
Drill Pilot Holes and Tighten Everything
Finally, drill pilot holes where you’ve marked the spots on the screen door. Only tighten the screws all of the way once they’re all in place. Lastly, you’re going to be tightening the turnbuckle itself. Manually turn the coupling nut until the door becomes level. It may become increasingly difficult to turn so you might need to equip the help of a wrench or pair of pliers for the final turns.
The turnbuckle may look aesthetically jarring, but there’s no question that it does the trick. You may notice it because you were the one who installed it, but most of the time, people hardly pay attention to storm doors, let alone the turnbuckles that run across them.
Upgrade the Hardware
Sometimes, a door out of alignment that appears sagging may just need a fresh set of hardware. Storm doors are exposed to moisture and spend a lot of time out in the elements. Hinges and screws can become rusted and stop supporting the door like they should.
If you’re sure that the problem isn’t in the surrounding molding or metal frame, the sagging could simply be old hardware. Replace the storm door’s set with new ones, and if possible, choose slightly larger hinges and screws as they’ll do a better job holding the door in its place.
Add a Shim to Your Sagging Storm Door
Fixing a sagging storm door and preventing one can be done with the help of a shim. It takes just a few minutes—start by unscrewing the bottom hinge of the storm door and cleaning off the buildup of gunk, buildup, and debris.
Your shim can be derived from a piece of wood or even cardboard, whatever you have handy. Place your shim by the hinge and screw all of the components back into place. If the door isn’t aligned, you will need a thicker shim.
Last, check the door’s operation and alignment by opening and closing it.
Be Kind to Your Storm Doors
Storm doors see an awful lot of abuse every day. They’re slammed, kicked open, and battered by the elements. Checking up on them at least once (or better, twice) a year can prevent them from falling into shambles, and that includes the common problem of sagging.
A sagging storm door is sad to look at, so be kind to your storm doors and fix them up when they need it.
Replace Your Sagging Storm Door
The simple way to fix an ongoing problem is by replacing a storm door completely. Repairing something is like putting a bandage and sometimes it’s not good enough if your home is losing out on energy efficiency. That’s why over 400,000 homeowners have turned to Feldco for storm door replacement. In fact, Feldco has replaced over 100,000 doors. Speak to a product specialist and get a free quote online today.
I have an anderson 3000 series full view storm door that I’m trying to learn how to adjust. The door was installed by homedepot over a year ago. I’ve noticed that the bottom left side of the door (handle side from the outside) along the weather stripping edge does not completely close against the frame. It leaves about a gap of 1/4inch on the left side (handle side). On the same side the weather-stripping seals completely at the top. No sticking/hanging up anywhere.
I’ve seen lots of guidance on adjusting various parts of the door but I haven’t figured how you adjust this. I’m a real novice — no experience hanging/adjusting doors so any guidance is helpful but i may need definitions/pictures if you are describing parts of the door.
If the door was always this way, I’d say that they didn’t plumb both sides of the jamb. but if this gap has opened up recently, I’d say that your door is warping with the temperatures, and might go back to the way it was once it warms up again.
But if you were going to try to adjust it, it’s not really a simple adjustment, since it would basically involve removing the door partway in order to shim behind it. The screw that you would need to remove might be hidden behind a vinyl cover, which “sometimes” is difficult to remove and reuse.
In the simplest terms, what you would need to do (from the outside) is unscrew the z-bar (this is the part with the weatherstrip that the door closest against) and shim it out. Basically you want to pull the z-bar (and weatherstripping) out so that it meets the door. You would place shims behind the z-bar at each screw. 1/4″ at the bottom, 3/16″ a third of the way up, 1/8″ halfway up, 1/16″ two thirds of the way up, and the top would remain where it is.
By all rights you would actually try to do half the adjustment on the bottom latch side of the z-bar (pulling it out 1/8″ away from the house), and the other half of the adjustment on the top hinge side of the z-bar ) by pulling the top hinge side z-bar 1/8″ away from the house. But that might be a little complicated, so start with that first suggestion and see how it goes.
If you wanted to caulk the edge to cover up the shims I think I’d first off recommend a temporary caulking like DAP “peel-n-stick” so that if the door needs to be adjusted again in the spring you still have that option.
Storm door owners know that daily wear and tear happens. Sometimes the constant opening and closing can cause your deadbolt to get stuck or stop working. The steps to fix this issue are simple. We’ll take you through some simple storm door troubleshooting to get your deadbolt feature working quickly.
When this happens the storm door deadbolt and latch side rail are likely misaligned, which can prevent the deadbolt from retracting. To unjam the deadbolt, remove the installation screws on the latch rail from the outside. This will loosen the tension on the deadbolt allowing it to retract and the door to open. Once the door is open, operate the handle and turn the deadbolt.
Note: If either does not operate when the door is open, the hardware needs to be replaced. Order Larson Storm Door parts here.
If your handle set and deadbolt move freely when the door is open, the deadbolt may be hitting the edge of the strike plate. Simply adjust the strike plate to allow the deadbolt to move freely. To determine in which direction and how much to move it, apply some lipstick to the edge of the deadbolt. When the door is closed, engage the deadbolt all the way. Open the door, and if there is a lipstick mark on the latch rail or strike plate, adjust as needed. Wipe the plate clean, and repeat the test until the deadbolt engages freely and doesn’t leave a mark.
If there is not lipstick on the strike plate, but there is a mark on the back surface of the deadbolt hole, the deadbolt hole in the door frame needs to be deepened with a chisel.
These troubleshooting tips will get your deadbolt back to working. If you’d like more help, just let our support team know and we’d be happy to assist.
How do you adjust a storm door that won’t close?
How to fix a storm door that won’t close
- Check for a loose frame and trim. …
- Tighten loose hinges. Other than a loose frame or trim, loose hinges are also a common culprit when a door won’t close. …
- Plane the doorframe. …
- Adjust the hold-open washer. …
- Tinker with the adjustment screw. …
- Move the connecting pin.
Why is my storm door slamming?
If your door is slamming, it could mean that the closer’s pin needs to be adjusted. There is a row of holes that you can use to adjust the position of the closer. Adjust the closer’s mounting position by moving it to another hole and test out the door.
How do you fix a misaligned door?
- Tighten the Hinge Screws. …
- Replace the Hinge Screws. …
- Drive a Screw or Two Into the Door Jamb. …
- Tighten the Strike Plate. …
- Move the Strike Plate Incrementally. …
- Move the Strike Plate Farther. …
- Inset the Strike Plate Deeper Into the Jamb.
What does S and L mean on a door closer?
Some models have separate adjustments for “sweep” (“S”), which is the speed with which the door moves when it starts closing, and “latch” (“L”), which is the speed it moves when it is about to close. … High backcheck tension prevents people from damaging the wall when they push the door open.
Why wont my screen door close all the way?
Screen doors fail to close properly when their hinges become imbalanced as a result of your home shifting or if the door frame has swelled or become loose. Swelling paint also can be a factor. The longer you go without correcting the situation, the greater the potential for permanent damage to the door or frame.
How do you adjust a storm door with two closers?
Dual Closer Speed Adjustment
- Start with the door in the fully closed position. …
- Open the door all the way and let it close. …
- Using Phillips screwdriver, turn the adjustment screw on the top closer at 1/4 turn intervals until the desired closing speed is achieved and the door latches shut completely.
Can a Larson storm door be reversed?
Most front entry doors are 36 in. wide and require a 36-in. … Nearly every storm door sold is reversible. That is, you can install it with the hinge on either side.
It’s hard to make a perfectly squared opening in a home. As a house settles, it can throw even a perfectly aligned door out of square, causing a gap to develop between the bottom of the door edge and the sill. Making a screen door align with its door sill is a task even a DIY novice can quickly complete. Some screen doors already have the parts on them to make the adjustments, while others need to have a door sweep added to close the gap.
Doors with Expanders
Locate the metal expander bar across the bottom of the screen door. This is a metal piece that extends across the underside of the bottom of the door’s edge. Find where the bar attaches to the bottom horizontal rail of the screen door.
Loosen the screws that hold the expander bar on the bottom rail, but do not remove them. The holes on the expander bar are typically oval to allow for adjustments.
Close the screen door. Adjust the expander bar down to close the gap between the screen door and the doorsill, instructs PCA Products. The door sweep attached to the expander bar should barely brush the doorsill with the door closed. Tighten the screws holding the expander.
Loosen the screws holding the bottom extenders on the doorframe. Lower the bottom extenders to close the gap between the door’s frame and the doorsill. Tighten the screws again.
Doors with Sweeps
Open the door to a 45-degree angle to give you easy access to change a damaged door sweep that is causing a gap between the door and its sill.
Reach underneath the door and pull on the door sweep. The sweep is a brushy or rubberized strip attached to the bottom of the door designed to close any gaps between the door and the sill. Work the sweep out toward the door-knob edge of the door. You won’t have enough room to pull it off on the hinge edge of the door. When you can’t get the sweep to loosen, pull on its end with a pair of pliers to get it started. Pull the sweep entirely off the door.
Insert a new sweep that matches the profile of the one you just removed back onto the track on the bottom of the door. Align both ends of the new sweep with the edges of the door.
Doors Without Sweeps
Close the door and hold the new sweep against the door to gauge where to place it so there is no gap between the door and sill.
Mark the screw holes on the sweep on the door. Drill pilot holes in those locations.
How To Adjust Door Closer On Storm Door. 7 replace the cover on the closer body when the door closes with the desired level of. A door closer is a device attached to the top of the door.
Source : www.pinterest.com
A few simple steps will help you to adjust any door closer. Additionally, how do you fix a hydraulic door closer?
Table of Contents
278 X 318 Brass Adjustable SelfClosing Screen Door
Adjusting the bracket that attaches the closer to the door. Adjusting the closing cylinder, or door closer, will ensure that the storm door latches as it should.
A self closing door hinges work an internal spring. 7 replace the cover on the closer body when the door closes with the desired level of.
Aluminum screen door and grille guard needs a w in the. A door closer is a device attached to the top of the door.
Andersen 3000 series full view interchangeable aluminum. A few simple steps will help you to adjust any door closer.
Andersen 34 x 80 in 4000 series white prehung lefthand. Additionally, how do you fix a hydraulic door closer?
Andersen 34 x 80 in 4000 series white prehung lefthand. Adjusting the bracket that attaches the closer to the door.
Andersen 36 in x 78 in 400 series white aluminum sliding. Adjusting the closing cylinder, or door closer, will ensure that the storm door latches as it should.
Andersen 36 in x 80 in 3000 series white lefthand self. Adjusting the speed on these can help prevent your door from slamming and ensuring a tight close every time.
Andersen 4000 series 36 in bronze fullview dual pane. Advertisement step 1 open the storm door 8 inches and slide the hold open washer over the indention on the closer rod.
Antique wood screen door interchangeable storm screen door. All of this can be dealt with if the adjusting screw in the closer is tightened.
Antique wood screen door interchangeable storm screen door. Also, why does my storm door slam shut?
Antique wood screen door interchangeable storm screen. Always use a ladder for the job.
Antique wood screen storm door glass lite pantry door. Andersen frequently recommends dual closers.
How To Adjust Door Closer On Storm Door
Always use a ladder for the job.Andersen frequently recommends dual closers.As long as you have the right tool for your closer (screwdriver, hex key, or small wrench) and a little time to check your work as you go, these six steps can help you successfully adjust most door closers.Both screen and storm door closer adjustment will be like a breeze through the following steps.
Check to be sure the closer you are attempting to release is the only closer on your door.Close and open the door a couple of times.Close the storm door and latch it.Closing speed may be adjusted from the thumbscrew shown in fig.
Customers often refer to this as the door closer pressure since it is the adjustment that makes sure the door holds shut.Disconnect one by removing the pin connecting it to the door bracket and swinging it away.Do not use a power tool to install or adjust the screw.Door closers consist of a pneumatic cylinder, which controls the speed of the door, and a bracket, which holds the.
For faster closing speed, turn adjustment screw to the left (1/4 turn counterclockwise).For faster closing speed, turn adjustment screw to the left (counterclockwise) for slower closing speed, turn adjustment.Hold open assembly for hidden closer, mill color.Hold the door bracket against the storm door with the closer cylinder and rod level.
If the closer you are attempting to release is at the bottom of the door, look up and vice versa.If the door doesn’t close all the way, adjust the bracket:If the door slams shut or closes too slowly, adjust the pneumatic cylinder:If you are struggling to open the door or your door is opening too fast or slow, then it may be time to adjust your door closer.
If you have two closers, adjust one at a time.Included in hidden closer kit with part number:Includes set screw, allen key and other components.Insert screws through the door bracket and into the door.
Insert the length of the door closer pins through the door bracket winter hole and closer cylinder hole.Instructions can be used to.It can be the storm or screen door closer adjustment.It is recommended to adjust closers individually (with the other closer disconnected)
It will give you both comfort and access.Locate the tension adjustment screw at the end of the pneumatic cylinder.Mark the screw holes on the storm door.Now carefully examine the door closer device.
Open the door and slide the stop out to hold the cylinder open.Open the door and watch it close.Place the end of the new closer over the closer base and slide it down.Place the pin in the door bracket and close the door.
Rather, push outward on the storm door to open it further.Repeat to install a second door closer.Replace the oil seals with new ones and again screw the covers.Rotate the closer clockwise so the button is on the top.
The closer rod will retract into the closer cylinder and the storm door will automatically close by itself.The hole closest to the end of the bracket is the “winter” hole.The most common door closer adjustments are:The storm door closers need adjustment when they start aging.
This increases the closing pressure on the door in the last few inches of travel to ensure that the door latch snaps into the catch.This might be because the spring inside the closer may have weakened or the seals in the cylinder have failed to function properly.This screw may be found at the end of the door where the closer is mounted.To adjust the speed of your storm door closer, click on the pdf document attached at the bottom of the page for either a single or dual closer.
To slow the closing, turn the screw on the end of the pneumatic cylinder clockwise.To speed up the closing, turn the screw.Turning the screw on the end of the closer that regulates the rate at which the air is released from the cylinder.Unhook door closer from door bracket.
Using a flathead screwdriver, tighten screw (turn clockwise) to raise tension and slow speed of door closing action.Using phillips screwdriver, turn the adjustment screw on the top closer at 1/4 turn intervals until the desired closing speed is achieved and the door latches shut completely.When the glass storm panels are down, place the connecting pin in the front hole of the closer tube (closest to the door bracket).When the screens are down, place the connecting pin in the rear hole of the closer tube (farthest from the door bracket).
You can adjust your storm door in a matter of minutes with one hand tool.Your hydraulic door repair isYour storm door likely has one or two closers.