Free Shipping in the Continental United States
Did You Buy a Shiva from Best Buy between 8/26-9/5? Get your Free Game Today.
RGB Control Guide
Choose your RGB System from the options below.
Gamdias RGB Remote Control Settings
- MB: Motherboard sync; uses motherboard settings for RGB
- Not applicable without motherboard RGB configuration
- If you have ASRock Polychrome, ASUS Aura Sync, GIGABYTE RGB Fusion, MSI Mystic Light or Thermaltake RGB PLUS only
In order to configure the LED settings, double click on the ASRock Polychrome RGB program.
- Select the item you wish to change LED settings on. (Onboard LED on the motherboard or component)
- Select the individual LED/component.
- Drag the tab on the color wheel to change the hue and saturation. You can drag the tab up and down on the RGB sliders to change the individual RGB values instead. Clicking the toggle switch on the bottom right enables or disables the LED.
- Change the style and effect by using the drop-down menus. Slide the speed radio button left and right in order to change the LED speed.
- Click “Apply” when done.
In order to configure the LED settings, double click on the ASUS Aura SYNC RGB program.
- You can select the link feature below the component’s icon to change which components are linked. Linked components will have their settings matched.
- On/Off: Turns the LEDs on and off.
- You can choose between the LED Sync settings and other settings (ASUS HUE, In-game syncing options)
- To change the lighting modes/effects, select from the left-hand side.
- The LED options such as hue, saturation, effect speed, brightness, etc. may change depending on the lighting mode. You can change the hue by dragging the tab on the color wheel, change the saturation and brightness with the slider, and manually input RGB values as well.
- To confirm your settings, simply click apply when you are done.
In order to configure the LED settings, double click on the GIGABYTE RGB Fusion program on your desktop or from the Gigabyte App Center.
- On the left-hand side, you can choose which component to control the lighting for. For compatible motherboards, you are able to select the individual LEDs on the board.
- You can select the LED lighting mode/effect using the icons in the middle of the screen.
- On the right side of the screen will be different options for each lighting mode. Depending on the mode, you will be able to change the color, brightness, speed and more. You can change the hue by dragging the tab on the color circle, select from a range of preset colors, manually input RGB values, and change the effect speed and brightness with the sliders.
You can click on the drop-down profile menu to add a profile as well as select any previously saved profiles. To confirm your settings, simply click apply when you are done.
In order to configure the LED settings, double click on the MSI Mystic Light program.
- You can click on the component on the top of the screen to control what settings it has.
- You can select the link feature below the component’s icon to change which components are linked.
- Linked components will have their settings matched.
- You can link all the components by clicking the link icon at right.
- To change the lighting modes/effects, select on the left side.
- You can change the hue and saturation at the left most side. The options may change depending on the lighting mode. You can change the hue by dragging the tab on the color wheel, change the saturation with the slider, and manually input RGB values as well.
- To save your settings in a profile for later use, you can click “New”. You can edit the name of the profile, save settings to the profile, apply the profile setting or delete the profile from the profile control panel.
- To confirm your settings, simply click apply when you are done.
To cycle through the RGB modes, press the LED light button on the top of the PC next to the power button.
- To Cycle LED Light Mode: Press LED light button briefly:
- To Turn off LEDs: Press LED light button and hold for >1.5 seconds
* For non-motherboard RGB setup (If you do not have ASRock Polychrome, ASUS Aura Sync, GIGABYTE RGB Fusion, MSI Mystic Light or Thermaltake RGB PLUS)
* For systems with an on-motherboard RGB option (ASRock, ASUS, GIGABYTE, etc)
In order to configure the LED settings, double click on the Thermaltake RGB Plus program on your desktop.
- To enable or disable a component, you can click the green or red icon next to the fan’s name.
- You can change the fan speed by selecting Performance, Silent or PWM modes or by dragging the tab left and right on the sliders.
- On the left, you can change the LED light effect, color mode as well as the speed of the effect.
- By clicking “Color”, you can specify the exact color values. You can select which individual LED on the fan to configure, as well as the color of that LED by clicking the numbered circle icons. By clicking the light bulb, you can turn the LED lighting on and off. You can change the LED brightness using the slider on the bottom.
To configure another device, click on another rectangular panel to select it.
When finished, just click “Done”.
You can save your configuration with the button on the upper right, as well as select different profiles that you may want to save it to.
RGB lights are very popular with gaming computers and especially fans. If you want to disable the RGB lights on your computer, here’s all you need to know.
TIP : Hard to fix Windows Problems? Repair/Restore Missing Windows OS Files Damaged by Malware with a few clicks
RGB lights are red, green, and blue lights that, when combined, can provide a wide array of colors, hence the name RGB lighting.
Many people purchase a gaming computer to do dual-duty and want to disable the lighting.
One of the biggest issues with disabling the RGB lighting on your computer is the wide array of the motherboard, cooling, and computer manufacturers who develop and sell RGB lighting. In other words, there’s no one answer, but we’ll get you there. There are three possibilities to disable RGB; the motherboard, BIOS settings, or software.
How to Disable RGB Lighting on Your Computer – Software
Downloading the software for your motherboard or hardware is easily the simplest way to control your RGB lighting, so let’s start there. If you don’t like playing in your BIOS or pulling wires on your motherboard, finding and downloading the software for your lighting is the way to go.
You cannot only enable and disable the lighting, but you can often find settings to change the color, brightness, or even disable the lighting when the computer is shut down, sleeping, or hibernating.
Here are some links to official software apps to manage your RGB or LED lighting. These links may change; please let us know in the comments below. The first two links were designed to work on multiple RGB hardware.
How to Disable RGB Lighting on Your Computer – Motherboard
Some computers, for example, the Hewlett Packard Envy and Omen series, have RGB lighting for the logo and the inside of the tower.
Unlike most RGB lighting, you can often disable this light by removing the power from the pins on the motherboard. This requires you to have a basic understanding of how motherboards work, so you don’t pull the wrong wire.
Each connection on your motherboard has an abbreviation for what it corresponds to. In our screenshot, you can see PWRBTN and LED. PWRBTN is the power button, and LED is the RGB or LED lights. You can disconnect the wire next to the LED and leave it loose to turn off the RGB lighting.
Some motherboards will use different names for different lighting. For example, we’ve seen light strips connected to RGB_HEADER.
Finally (probably not), some fans might have a power connection on the fan base to power the lighting.
If you’re not sure, that’s OK; motherboards are not something to tinker with. There are always other options. Move on to the next two steps. You should be able to locate your motherboard manual online to find what pins power your RGB lighting.
How to Disable RGB Lighting on Your Computer – BIOS
The BIOS, much like the motherboard, is best used if you have some experience. This is because every BIOS is different, so the settings for RGB will be different for every brand motherboard. Even accessing the BIOS is different from computer to computer.
We recommend you look up your motherboard manual online and find the BIOS settings. Each manual will tell you where to disable any lighting.
One of the main problems that users who have Corsair and ASUS hardware with RGB have is precisely the distance between the two in terms of software. Although this year has been the first in which they collaborate together to alleviate this, they are far from creating an ecosystem where we can control all our components with a single program. Luckily, there is software that allows you to do that in a simple way: JackNet RGB Sync.
There are not a few who trust Corsair or ASUS for their hardware and peripherals, but as with other brands, each one has different software to control its ecosystem. Far from agreeing between everyone, they are complicating this problem more and more and users are demanding ease, a single program where we can control everything.
Instead of joining forces and determining resources for an “all-in-one” where to upload your .dll files and make things easier for the user, the war continues and only users have the key to the problem. In this case, the solution is called JackNet RGB Sync and it is the first attempt of a program that really works and that is being updated.
JackNet RGB Sync: the first solution to synchronize all your RGB
It is not perfect, it may not recognize all peripherals or hardware, but it is the main software that is taking a chair in the world of RGB lighting. To use it, the first thing we will do is go to its official website and download the program in its latest version.
Once downloaded, Windows will warn us that this program is not safe. It happens with some versions and it is totally normal, click on run anyway.
Once executed we will have the typical installer where we will not have to give anything more than the next button and accept the terms and license. All very standard and only has the novelty of allowing the program to start with Windows.
After this, the program will run and show us its interface for the first time.
As we can see, the program presents a simple interface with few options, but just in case and to make it more comfortable for us, the first thing we will do is change the language by entering the Settings panel.
Within it we will have some options that we can mark and even become premium to unlock some extra functions.
After changing the language and automatically restarting the program we will go to the first panel called LED Groups, where we will select New LED Group.
Once the group is opened, the first thing we will do is enter a name for that group, after which we will select the main LED. This section determines which will be the reference LED that will set the tone for the rest.
Normally a Corsair LED should be selected, which is usually the first in the series, but if this does not work as we will see later, another would have to be selected.
Control of the main LED of the system is essential to set priorities
Once done, on the left side of the screen we will see all the components, peripherals and accessories that the program detects, as well as all the sensors they have for their LEDs. What we will have to do is pass all those components that we want to synchronize their RGB to the right side of the screen.
For this we can use the typical Shift / shift and select from the first to the last, since going one by one is an ordeal in the vast majority of cases.
Normally the program does not leave anything undetected, although in our case it is not able to see the system that includes the ROG Balteus, so unfortunately it is out of sync.
It is a matter of time and resources that its developers can offer compatibility, as it will happen with other components.
Once we have all the LEDs on the right side for synchronization, the last step comes: open the official reference software of the brand that we have selected. In our case, between AURA Sync and iCUE, the second works best as a dominator, but in other brands such as EVGA, GIGABYTE or Razer, it could be the other way around, it is a matter of trying.
As we have said before, iCUE will set the standard in terms of lighting, we will only have to choose the color or effect that we want so that it applies to all ASUS components. Keep in mind that since there is no standard in RGB and much less in lighting effects, many may not be available because one of the two brands does not include it.
In that case we will not have selectable lighting as a general rule, or it may appear but when selecting it, the peripherals of the other brand turn off, it is a matter of trying between effects and colors.
As we can see, JackNet RGB Sync is the first software that tries to successfully unify different brands and it is sure that if they continue to be supported through premium subscriptions and by making their program popular, they will further improve the support (which is already good in itself).
By rocketman221 Follow
I wanted to make my computer case light up, but after reading some bad reviews on cold cathode lights I decided to make my own LED lights instead.
These lights only cost me about $15 to make. I had most of the materials on hand though. The only thing I bought was the LEDs and the drivers.
Custom LED bars for a computer case.
6 Watts of Blue LEDs
Step 1: Parts & Tools
6x 1W LEDs
2x 3x1W LED Drivers
28″ of 3/4″ x 1/16″ 90 Degree Angle Aluminum (could use 1/2″ x 1/16″)
Wire Scraps (about 4 ft.)
4x Pop Rivets
1/8″ Expandable Sleeving (optional)
Heat Shrink (optional)
Hot Glue Gun
Needle Nose Pliers
Pop Rivet Tool
Step 2: Testing the LEDs
The cheap LEDs I ordered didn’t have the polarity marked, so I tested the LEDs with a coin cell battery. It’s connected to the test leads with magnets. Then I marked the cathode with a marker.
Don’t run the LEDs at full power without a heat sink, they will burn themselves up.
Step 3: Straiten the LED Leads
These LEDs are made to be surface mounted, so the leads are bent down.
The leads need to be straitened and bent slightly upwards so that the wires can be soldered to them without touching the aluminum heatsink.
I used needle nose pliers to carefully bend the leads.
Step 4: Mount the LEDs
Cut the aluminum into two 12″ pieces, the rest of the aluminum will be used to make the mounting brackets.
Mark the center and 2″ from both ends.
Mount the LEDs with a small amount of super glue. Don’t use the super glue gel, it’s too thick.
Thermal epoxy would work too, but it’s expensive.
Make sure the leads all go the same direction.
Step 5: Solder the LEDs Together
Solder 3 LEDs in series. Then attach about 6″ of wire to one end and 18″ to the other.
Drill holes just past the LEDs on the ends to pass the wires through.
Secure the connections with hot glue, or silicone to prevent them from breaking.
Step 6: Prepare the LED Drivers
Solder wires to the inputs on both drivers.
These drivers work with AC or DC so there is no polarity on the inputs.
The power cable was made from a case fan power adapter.
I removed the extra connector to save space because I have plenty of molex connectors on my power supply.
Only the 12V wire and one ground wire are needed (Yellow & Black).
I put the drivers in a small plastic case and drilled two holes for the wires.
The white wires are LED ground and the pink wires are LED positive. They are all connected to the 4 conductor wire.
I connected a 2 pin header connector in the line. It goes to a switch in my case.
I slipped the last of my expandable sleeving, which I had left over from building the computer, over the power wires and put some heat shrink over the connection in the middle.
Step 7: Check for Smoke (Testing the Lights)
I tested the lights out by connecting them to my ATX Bench Power Supply .
The LEDs are blindingly bright. They light up the entire room.
These LEDs don’t have a greenish tint to them it’s just my camera.
Warning: Don’t Look Into The LEDs
Step 8: Prepare for Mounting
Measure out the spacing between the mounting holes on your case. Mine was about 8 7/8″ apart.
If your case doesn’t have any suitable mounting holes, you may have to get a bit creative with some zip ties.
The mounting brackets are made with the rest of the aluminum. There are four 1″ pieces.
They have holes drilled on both sides, and are pop riveted to the LED bars.
Step 9: Mounting
The LED bars are bolted to the water cooling mounts in my Coolermaster HAF X case.
The LEDs are connected to the switch on the front panel that normally controls the front fan LED. I inserted a bent header pin into the fan LED connector so that it still lights up.
The LED drivers are mounted to the back side of the case with double back tape.
Be sure that the LED bars are attached securely, it would be bad if they fell into other components in the case.
Warning : Always wear an anti static strap when working inside your computer.
Step 10: Finished
Now that the LEDs are installed, power them up and the case will be filled with bright blue light.
The LEDs run cool even after several hours, all six LEDs could be mounted on a single 12″ piece of aluminum.
They light the inside of the case very well. They also light the area around the computer, however it’s not too bright.
By Prowlr Check out My YouTube Channel! Follow
LEDs are extremely useful when put on quadcopters because they can help with identification and orientation, meaning you’ll be able to see your quad better in the air and you will be able to tell which direction it is facing. They can also be programmed to change colour based on the different inputs received from the radio. For example, you can set the LEDs to show green when disarmed and red when armed. Or you can fade from one colour to another depending on how much throttle is applied. You can also assign indicator lights, where 2 LEDs on either side, blink depending on which direction the quadcopter is rolling, just like a regular car when it is turning either left or right.
This instructable shows you how you can individually address LEDs on an LED strip and how to connect it to your quadcopter.
Step 1: The Software
The LEDs receive the signal from the flight controller and are therefore programmed through the flight controller. As long as your flight controller supports LEDs, you can program it through the software used to adjust the flight controller settings.
(Shameless plug incoming) If you don’t know what a Flight Controller is, you can visit the other instructable I made, where I explain how all the components in a quadcopter work and how to build your very own. But to save you the time, a Flight Controller simply takes the signal received from the radio/remote control and sends it to the motors which individually spin up and down depending on the direction you told it to go with the radio.
The flight controller that I use is the Naze32 which uses CleanFlight. CleanFlight provides a very simple and easy tool for individually addressing the LEDs while also allowing awesome features such as the ability for the colours to change based on the amount of throttle input and other parameters.
Once you’ve downloaded the software, you can then connect your flight controller to the computer.
Step 2: Connecting the Flight Controller to the Computer
Some flight controllers come with the older miniUSB ports while some come with the newer microUSB ports. Grab the correct cable for your flight controller and plug it into the USB port.
Step 3: Getting Into the Software
If you’re connecting the Flight Controller to the computer for the first time, you’ll need to wait for your computer to automatically download the correct drivers. Once it is installed and you have the correct COM port selected (fig.1), click on ‘connect’ (fig.2), which will take you into the software where you can adjust all the different settings (fig.3).
There are many tabs to choose from on the left. We’re only interested in the ‘Configuration‘ tab and the ‘LED Strip” tab.
Click on the configuration tab and scroll down, right to the bottom, where you’ll see a list of options. Halfway down the list, you have the option to enable LEDs under ‘LED_Strip‘. Click on that and it should turn green (fig.4).
Next, you can go straight into the LED Strip tab where you’ll be greeted with the LED programmer (fig.5).
Step 4: Activate 'Wire Ordering Mode'
Click on ‘Wire Ordering Mode’. This will allow you to assign the LED sequence. Your LED doesn’t have to be the same order as mine. It could also be a ring or a board. All you have to do is copy the shape/order of the LEDs. Mine was a basic straight line with 8 LEDs so I will select 8 LEDs in order, going from left to right.
The shape of the LED doesn’t matter either, what matters is the way the LEDs were wired. You could have an LED board in a square shape, consisting of 9 LEDs and you could select 9 LEDs in a straight line and it would work because CleanFlight has no way of telling what the shape is, therefore creating the same shape in CleanFlight is only to make it easier to understand how the colours will be assigned to the individual LEDs.
Step 5: Assigning the Colours
Click on LED 0, click on ‘Color’, then click on the 2 on the right side where the coloured boxes are. This means that the first LED will light up red.
Repeat this process for all 8 LEDs, assigning each with its own colour.
Below I’ve listed the colour that each LED should be assigned to. If you hover the mouse over any of the colours, its name will appear.
LED 0 = 2 (Red) (fig.1)
LED 1 = 3 (Orange) (fig.2)
LED 2 = 4 (Yellow) (fig.3)
LED 3 = 5 (Lime Green) (fig.4)
LED 4 = 6 (Green) (fig.5)
LED 5 = 9 (Light Blue) (fig.6)
LED 6 = 10 (Blue) (fig.7)
LED 7 = 11 (Dark Violet) (fig.8)
When you’re done, hit ‘Disconnect‘ and unplug the USB from the flight controller.
Step 6: Connecting It to Your Quadcopter
Once you’ve programmed the LED strip, you are ready to attach it to your quad. On the Naze32, you can connect the power wires (red and black) to one of the spare ESC/motor pins. The signal wire (white) connects to ‘LED/5’.
You can choose to place the LED strip wherever you want. I placed mine on the bottom of the arms but you can also attach it to the back so that it acts as a set of tail lights.
If you have any questions, post them in the comments below. I’d be glad to answer them 🙂
LED strips can make your overall gaming setup more beautiful. RGB LED lights are affordable and quite easy to set up. You can just use the adhesive on the strips to fix the LED lights on your desktop and the gaming system itself. Building a custom PC can be quite fun but not many users know how to do it properly.
CyberPowerPC is a good brand that builds custom PC for its customers. You can provide them with specifications and they will build a complete system for you. In this article, we will discuss how you can change the LED light color on your CyberPowerPC
How to Change LED Light Color on CyberPowerPC?
Many users are confused about this issue and can’t get the LED lights inside their custom build to change colors. It can be quite annoying if the LED colors are too bright and feel heavy on your eyes. There are two methods that you can use to change the colors on your CyberPowerPC. This first one is by simply using the button to toggle through different colors of the RGB light strips.
Depending upon the specification of your build you will find this button along with the power button. It has a sun icon over it and you can just press it once to change the color of LED strips to a different color . You also have the option to toggle the LED strips to multi-color LED lights. This is how you can easily change the LED light color using the button.
If there is no button on your case and you cannot get your RGB lighting to change from the rainbow mode then you can use the application in your PC to change the color of your RGB lights. To do this, you need to boot up your PC and open up file explorer. From there go to your C drive and open up program files, after that go to GIGABYTE and navigate to RGB fusion. After that just click on the application to run it on your system.
Follow the instructions on the prompt for the initial setup and now you will be able to control your LED lights to whichever color you want. However, if your LED lights are malfunctioning and you are still not able to control them even after trying the button and using the RGB fusion app. Then you need to check the connectors again. Sometimes the connectors are either loose or disconnected altogether during shipping.
So, if you’ve just bought the custom system then you need to check the connectors again and try using the app to control your LED lights. If the issue persists then you should contact CyberPowerPC support and ask them to help you manage your LED lights.
Just follow their instructions step by step and you should be able to get your LED strips to change color. So, send CyberPowerPC an email and wait for their response. It should take no longer than 48 hours for them to respond to your query.
If you’re new to LED strip lights but are eager to get them up and running, the most critical step is figuring out how to provide the appropriate power input to the LED strip in order to get it to light up. Depending on where you purchased your LED strip and LED power supply, set up methods may differ. Below, we’ll go over the most common setups.
Ensure Electrical Compatibility of the LED Strip and Power Supply
Most LED strip light products operate on low voltage DC. Common DC voltages used are 12V and 24V.
First and foremost, check that the power supply is rated for the correct voltage that matches the LED strip voltage. Undervoltage to the LED strip will result in the LED strip operating at lower brightness or no light output at all, and overvoltage will burn out your LEDs.
Secondly, make sure that the power supply capacity is sufficient for the length of LED strip being used. This can be calculated by looking at the LED strip’s specifications sheet, which typically lists the current or power draw per length.
If both of these conditions are met, electrically speaking, we are good to go.
Waveform Lighting’s LED Strip Connection Guide Chart
Next, we’ll need to look at whether the power supply and LED strip are physically compatible in the way of connectors and plugs. Because LED strips and power supplies come in a variety of connection types, it can get a bit confusing. So, to help shed some light (pun intended!) we’ve put together the chart below.
Click here for a downloadable PDF version which may help if you are having trouble with the text size.
How to interpret this chart:
First, determine the type of connection used on the “Power Supply Side” (shaded green). Then, determine the type of connection used on the “LED Strip Side” (shaded blue). Detailed instructions for determining the type are below.
Next, find the intersection of the row and column that applies to your setup. For example, if you have “Open Wires” on your power supply and “DC Receptacles” on your LED strip, reference the bottom right square in the chart.
The photo and text inside the square describe how the connection is achieved, along with the accessories and components that you will need. See below for additional detail:
Determining the Power Supply’s DC Output Connector (Shaded Green)
We start by looking at the power supply’s connector type on the DC output side.
The most common connector is a DC male plug, such as what is used in Waveform Lighting FilmGrade power supplies:
Both types can be made to work with an LED strip, but the connection methodology will be different, so be sure to determine this prior to moving forward.
Next, check the connection type on the LED strip (shaded blue)
Almost all LED strips have copper pads, labeled (+) and (-) on the actual strip itself. This is where the electrical inputs must ultimately be fed through. Depending on your particular situation, you will likely encounter three different possible scenarios.
In the first scenario (first row of chart), if you’ve cut up any segments of an LED strip reel, you will find that at the end of each segment remain (roughly) half-circular copper pads.
If you’ve purchased an entire reel, the manufacturer has likely provided some wires already mounted onto the ends of the LED strip. The wires can either be open leads with exposed wire (second scenario), or terminate with a DC receptacle (third scenario). If you do cut the LED strip into shorter segments, you will end up with at least one segment that falls under the first scenario.
Reference the chart above to determine how to connect each of these scenarios to the power supply.
Keep in mind some basic electronics principles: the end goal is to connect the positive wire (usually red) of the power supply’s DC output to the (+) copper pad, and the negative or ground (usually black or white) of the power supply’s DC output to the (-) copper pad.
Converting Copper Pads to Wires
If you’re cutting the LED strip into shorter segments, you will very likely end up with copper pads without any wires. Many tutorials and instructional videos will immediately suggest soldering wires onto those copper pads to achieve an electrical connection. But, soldering is not for everyone. It can be messy and requires some practice to do well.
Instead, we recommend using solderless connectors. These connectors are designed to clip onto the ends of the LED strip so that the wires make secure contact with the copper pads. Because the clips attach securely, no solder is needed.
Just like this, in a matter of seconds, you can convert copper pads on the end of an LED strip segment into wires.
And, best of all, you can simply undo the latch to release and remove the LED strip from the connector.
Should LED strip sections be connected in “parallel” or “series”?
If you’re trying to connect more than one LED strip segment to a single power supply, you may suddenly realize that you could connect the first segment to the second segment in “series” or connect to two segments independently to the same power supply.
Generally, “series” will be more straightforward, but may lead to some issues with voltage drop. See here for an in-depth analysis of the advantages and disadvantages of each approach.
Where do I purchase the accessories to connect my LED strips to my power supply?
We offer the accessories for sale directly on our store. See below for links.
By _NovaRaze_ NovaRaze Follow
Welcome to my Tutorial,
While LED strip lights are already an extremely cool and efficient way to shine some light into an ordinary household. Allowing these lights to interact with the music of your choice allows for an even more enriched experience. Instead of creating something myself I will be showing you how to use an LED music controller.
Make sure you check out my video for a demonstration on how to assemble this lighting system!
Step 1: Power Up
Before we can even step up the controller we need to find a way to give it power. If your lucky maybe your version came with a power supply but for those out there that aren’t so lucky I’ve got you covered. These lights required a 12v power supply. I found a spare one I had laying around the house. the power adaptor I used looked like the one on this step.
Step 2: Connector
The next step will be to cut the special LED light strip connector on one side so we can separate the wires and strip them. you can strip these wires either using wire cutters or scissors. Once this is complete you ant to feed the four different coloured cord into their correct slots. how this is done is by pressing down on the buttons as you feed them in and letting go of the button once the wires are in which will lock them in place. So now we have our power supply and connect all wired into the controller.
Step 3: Connecting the Lights to the Connector
The Final step is to connect the LED strip lights themselves to the controller using the connector we had attached to the controller in the pervious step. To do that simply open up the hatch on the connector so we can feed the light in. now warning before you try to feed the light through ensure that there is no rubber coating on the light which would make it water proof. However, if there is like mine simply peel it back and cut it off using some scissors. then you can line the four bronze tabs on the light to the four sliver tabs on the connector. Once this is done close the hatch and your LED lights will be connected to the music controller.
Step 4: Party Time
Once this is all done get on some music of your choice but ensure that the speaker is put extremely close to the controller as the sensors aren’t that strong. Now you have lights that will flash along to your music. If you wish to see an example of this check out my video for a demonstration of the lights in action!
Thank you for checking out this tutorial and if you want to see more by me make sure to follow my account and subscribe to my channel to support future builds.
Introduction: How to Make LEDs Flash to Music With an Arduino
This is a guide to make an LED flashing circuit that “beats” to an mp3 file on your computer, which can add an awesome effect to any sound-related device, or even your room (if you extend the concept with LED drivers or plenty of resistors/transistors).
The LED flashing circuit makes use of the Minim audio library and the Arduino program Processing to analyze sound, producing a response based on a snare drum hit, a bass drum hit, and a hi-hat hit from the percussion of the audio file.
Step 1: Parts/Tools Needed
Here is what you’ll need to make the LED beat flashing circuit:
1. An Arduino microcontroller board. There are many versions of the Arduino, but I would recommend the Arduino Duemilanove. You can buy one online for around $20.
2. Three LEDs (different colors preferred, so you can see the difference in beats easier – I used a red, yellow, and green LED)
3. Three resistors (depending on your LEDs, the resistor value will be different – check the ratings on the LEDs to see what resistance corresponds to their maximum brightness, without burning them out)
4. A solderless breadboard
5. Some wire, to use as leads from the Arduino to the LEDs/resistors on the breadboard
6. A computer
7. A USB cable (A to B)
1. Arduino Software Environment
2. Processing Software Environment
3. The “arduino” library for Processing
4. The BeatWrite / BeatListener code from the minim JavaSound library examples
Download links for the software will follow in Step 3.
Step 2: Build the Circuit on the Breadboard
In order to have the Arduino access the LEDs, you have to build a small circuit on a solderless breadboard. The breadboard has two parts: the inner rails (which run width-wise) and the outer rails (which run length-wise). The rails are electrically connected along their lines, so you can connect components without actually soldering them together. Here is how to make our simple circuit:
1. Run a wire from the digital GND port of the Arduino to the negative outer rail of the breadboard, as shown in image 1.
2. Place your three resistors (I used 1kilo-ohm resistors for this example, which matched my LEDs well enough) in an evenly-spaced fashion on the inner rails of the breadboard. Note that on a breadboard, a line runs length-wise, halfway down the middle. This separates the left inner rails from the right inner rails, so you can connect more components. Position the resistors so that they bridge the gap between the inner rails, as shown in image 2.
3. Place the LEDs right next to the right side of the resistors, with the anode (the longer end) in the slot right next to the resistor, and the cathode (the shorter end) into the slot that is offset to the resistors by 1 slot, as shown in image 3 (see image 4 to see the difference between an anode and a cathode).
4. Run wires from the cathode rail of the LEDs to the ground outer rail, as shown in image 5.
5. Run wires from the anode side of the resistors to digital pins 12, 8, and 2 on the Arduino to complete the circuit, as shown in image 6 and 7.
Now that we have our circuit made, it’s on to the programming.
Step 3: Program Your Arduino
Programming the Arduino is pretty simple. Through a couple of small programs, your simple LED circuit will be dancing to the beat in no time.
1. Connect the Arduino to your computer with your A to B USB cable (your computer should install its driver automatically) – see image 1.
2. Download the Arduino Software Environment from here and extract it to a folder (no installation required, just keep the folder in a safe place).
3. Download the Processing Software Environment from here and extract it to a folder near your Arduino SE folder.
4. Download the Arduino library for Processing from here, and copy it into your Processing/libraries folder.
5. Run the arduino.exe program in your Arduino SE folder.
6. Go to File -> Examples -> Firmata -> StandardFirmata, and press the Upload button on the Arduino SE (see image 2).
7. Wait a few seconds, until your RX/TX LEDs on your Arduino stop blinking (which means the Firmata firmware is installed).
8. Download and unzip the attached folder of code below (BeatWrite.zip).
9. Copy an .mp3 file into the “data” folder of the unzipped BeatWrite folder.
10. Open Processing (processing.exe), then open the BeatWrite.pde file in the BeatWrite folder.
11. Edit the line of code “song = minim.loadFile(“freebird.mp3″, 2048);”. Instead of using “freebird.mp3”, use the filename of your mp3.
12. Hit the Run button on the top-left (see image 3).
Sit back, and enjoy the light show!
Step 4: How It Works / Customizing the Script
The reason this program works is due to the minim JavaSound library. This fancy library comes with Processing, and can do plenty of cool things with analyzing audio signals. In our case, it uses the fast fourier transform of the audio signal from the mp3 to analyze certain frequencies, and lights an LED if certain ranges of frequencies go above the allotted “sensitivity” value. In order to change this sensitivity value, all you need to do is change the “beat.setSensitivity(100);” line of code in the BeatWrite program. Also, as I said before, you can definitely extend this concept to many LEDs on a large scale. This is just a small-scale example of the potential for this great library. Also, if you know more about your mp3 than just generic hi-hat, snare, and bass drum hits, you can use the isRange(int low, int high, int threshold) method to beat the circuit to other patterns in your music. The sky is the limit in terms of audio processing with Minim and BeatDetect.
Many thanks to the Minim team for providing a BeatDetect manual with plenty of examples. This LED tutorial is a hardware extension of this software example.
Step 5: How It Should Look
Here is a video of when I first made the BeatWrite circuit (it looks a little different than the one we’re building, but the concept is the same).